The train to the German city of Stuttgart is pretty full. At each stop, people wearing Germany kits get on. There's a buzz of conversation about the German national football team and the upcoming FIFA World Cup in the US, Canada and Mexico.
On one of the last days of March, Germany play Ghana in the final international break before World Cup preparations begin. Many fans started their journey first thing in the morning, including Dennis and Kai.
The two friends from the north of Germany put on their kits and boarded the train early, keen to support the team in person that evening in Stuttgart.
For Dennis in particular, trips like this are routine; he has been following the national team since 2015, and the 40-year-old has hardly missed a game since. Kai has been a regular since Euro 2024 on home soil.
"Wearing the eagle on your chest and singing the national anthem is something special," Dennis told DW. "You always meet up with other fans, travel to tournaments — it always gives you goosebumps."
The two are what are known as regulars, fans who accompany the team to every match — wherever the location.
The buzz before the tournament
No wonder, then, that the upcoming FIFA World Cup is firmly marked in their calendars.
"I'm really looking forward to it," said Kai, his eyes lighting up as he speaks. "I want to soak up everything that's going on in the cities. Dennis has always talked so much about it."
The anticipation begins long before the tournament, added his mate Dennis: "The excitement starts two years in advance; you start saving up and thinking about what the trip might look like."
Both have already bought tickets for Germany's group games, and their itinerary is all planned out. They're really looking forward to it, and the current political situation in the United States isn't dampening their spirits.
"Politics should really stay out of sport. Sport is meant to build bridges and bring people together, but politics often likes to exploit tournaments like this," said Dennis.
Löw warns against traveling
Not everyone is as relaxed, though. Most recently, former Germany head coach Joachim Löw warned against traveling to North America.
"We had debates even before the 2018 World Cup in Russia and calls for a boycott ahead of the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. But playing in a country that is currently actively at war is even more dangerous," warned Löw at an event in Cologne.
Löw, who led Germany to victory at the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil, was referring to the policies of US President Donald Trump, who started war with Iran at the end of February. On top of this, operations by immigration agency ICE and other geopolitical conflicts are causing unrest and uncertainty. The political situation is "completely overshadowing the tournament," said Löw.
Green party politician worried about personal freedom
There has also been, and continues to be, strong criticism from the political sphere.
"What FIFA is organising there together with Donald Trump is not something that makes my heart beat faster," Green Party politician and human rights activist Boris Mijatovic told DW.
"The disclosure of personal data, such as email addresses, mobile phones, computers or social media accounts, should not be ignored. These are all infringements on personal freedom that I would not tolerate," Mijatovic said. "A state that snoops into your privacy in this way should not be rewarded with a visit."
Mijatovic also fears further "bizarre moments of vicarious embarrassment" such as FIFA President Gianni Infantino presenting the newly created FIFA Peace Prize to Trump during the World Cup draw.
"I find it utterly grotesque the way one has to pay homage to this president to win his favor. This applies just as much to Gianni Infantino as it does to [German] Chancellor Friedrich Merz," added the politician, including DFB German FA President Bernd Neuendorf in his criticism.
Mijatovic feels there is a lack of courage to voice criticism of FIFA.
"I miss that stance," he said. "What we once built, with respect and fair play, has gone down the drain."
Most recently, a report by the human rights organisation Amnesty International also highlighted abuses in the World Cup host countries, particularly in the USA.
Germany fans skeptical about the tournament
For Germany fan Bengt Kunkel this year's World Cup will be one he watches on television at home rather than in person. Kunkel, who has worked hard to generate a great atmosphere at Germany games for several years, will not be traveling to the US.
"I take a very critical view of the World Cup," he said. Trump is a huge problem, he added, because he is trying to make the World Cup his own and exploit it for his political agenda.
"On top of that, there are the restrictions on press freedom and freedom of expression, plus FIFA's political pandering in awarding the Peace Prize to Donald Trump," said Kunkel, who is also critical of the cost to fans.
"We worked out that for the group stage alone, we would probably have had to spend between €5,000 and €8,000 ($5,800-$9,280)," explained the Germany fan. "This isn't a fan-friendly tournament. Nothing about this World Cup appeals to me, so it was clear I wouldn't be going."
The stricter entry requirements for fans are also a cause for concern for the 27-year-old.
"When it comes to saying, 'we're going to check all social media activity of people wanting to enter the US and see if anyone has liked or posted anything against Donald Trump,' then that has nothing to do with inviting the world into your home and wanting to celebrate a football festival."
Can the team win the World Cup together?
Kunkel knows that the 2026 World Cup is currently dividing fans.
"But I understand anyone who goes there," said Kunkel, adding that he does not believe a boycott is the answer.
"It has to be OK to support the national team, despite everything. So let's just make the best of it and have a brilliant World Cup summer."
Even Dennis and Kai admit it's "not a fan-friendly World Cup." Nevertheless, they're confident that the US will ensure everyone's safety and that it will be a fantastic football festival.
"We want to become world champions," Dennis said. "We have to be a team and act as a team, and if we fans stand behind the team, we can go a long way."
This article was originally published in German.
ESPN 
